QUESTION: I am sitting here watching a brand-new home being backfilled without weeping tile. I live quite close to the Red River, about 500 yards away. It is a concrete foundation and they took the care to wrap the foundation with Delta Wrap. I'm not in the construction business, but I am pretty sure that even with the Delta Wrap you still need weeping tile. The soil is mainly made up of silt and clay here. All the homes in this area have a sump pit and sump pumps. My question is what will happen to the home's foundation if it is left like this? Weeping-tile drainage systems in new homes are composed of long, corrugated plastic pipes installed near the bottom of the foundation and footings. These long pipes are perforated to collect excess ground water, which is channeled to non-perfora...
To solve this problem some creative homeowners or contractors install a secondary sump pump that is powered by a 12-volt battery. This smaller pump is typically installed with the float or activation switch near the top of the pit, rather than the bottom, so that it does not engage until the other pump fails. This pump should only engage when there is a problem with the electrical pump, likely due to power failure. This second pump can be connected to the same discharge piping with a second check valve to prevent backing up of water into the connection pipes. Often, these pumps are connected to a large marine grade 12-volt battery, sitting just outside the sump pit. The function of a sump pit in a newer home is to create a reservoir underneath the basement floor slab to temporarily sto...
... excess groundwater collected by the weeping tile system. The perforated plastic drainage tile, whic...
The second reason that homes in our area are built with deep concrete footings and foundations is to minimize movement due to frost heaving and from our expansive clay soil. Because of the very distinct temperature variations between our lengthy Manitoba winter and the hot summer, changes in the soil can create major movement in buildings. In a typical winter, the clay soil in our area will freeze to a certain depth and suspend frozen moisture until the weather warms sufficiently in the spring to thaw this soil. When this occurs, the soil may expand significantly, depending on the moisture content, and push foundations and buildings in various directions. The deeper the footings below the foundations are poured, the less likely they will be affected by this movement. With modern home-b...
... waterproofing membranes, plastic drainage tile, and insulated concrete forms also prevent mo...
Foundation repairs on stone or rubble foundations, other than minor repointing or parging above grade or inside basements, are not in the scope of expertise of the home handyman. These repairs typically require major excavation, usually by hand, around the perimeter of the home right down to the base of the foundation. Once the exterior of the foundation is exposed, loose mortar can be removed and the foundation repointed. This may have to be done from both the interior and exterior of the foundation, if there is enough damage to the mortar joints. After complete, new damp proofing or membranes and drainage tile system can be installed outside the foundation, if no further structural repairs are required. If there is significant movement in the stones they may have to be removed and re...
... foundation walls shall be drained by drainage tile or pipe laid around the exterior of the found...
It is unusual to have major foundation-leakage issues with homes that are less than 20 years old in our area. If this occurs, it is usually because of a problem with the concrete, causing cracks and leakage, or due to poor workmanship. I expect that your situation is due to the latter of these two possibilities. Your statement about digging up one corner and finding missing "tar" and rusted form ties leads me to believe that the damp-proofing was never properly installed in the first place. Also, proper damp-proofing, whether it is bitumen and mesh coating or a sheet-style membrane, should last for decades, if done correctly. Where these systems may fail is if there are large cracks that develop in the foundation, or if other critical components are not properly installed or performing ...
... in your previous repairs is the drainage piping, or weeping tile, as it is often called. Mo...
The backwater valve is simply a one-way valve installed in the drainpipe, beneath the basement floor slab, that allows material to flow from the house drain to the sewer pipe outside, but not in the reverse direction. This should prevent sewage from backing up through your basement bathroom drains and the basement catch basin floor drain, should the city sewer become blocked. If this occurs during a heavy rainstorm, as is often the case, the excess rainwater will overflow from the catch basin into the sump pit. To allow this to work properly, there should be a short pipe installed just below the surface of the basement floor slab that connects the sump pit to the catch basin. The best arrangements that I see with late-installation sump pumps incorporate one or more of the existing weepi...
..., 15 years ago, as backup to remove weeping tile water from the floor drain catch basin in case of ... diverts some of the regular weeping tile drainage water to the sump pump, which should ensure period...
Any time our clay soil is excavated, to dig a trench or depression, the lower area created is an ideal area to collect water from snow melt runoff and rain. This is primarily due to the nature of the clay soil, which will slowly absorb water and allow the excess to run to the lowest point. That is why we often see standing water in only the lowest areas of yards and why good grading around foundations is critical to maintaining a dry basement. With sandy soils or stone, such as that in your window well, this may not happen. This stone may allow good moisture absorption in the spaces between the granular material. That is why the window well drains are often filled with stone, to allow good drainage to the weeping tile. The stone is normally installed only in the top section of the windo...
Settlement of soil around foundations and under concrete steps, sidewalks, & driveways is a normal occurrence due to erosion and other normal forces of nature. Building up the soil in these areas is critical to maintaining a dry basement, especially in older homes. The majority of minor moisture intrusion situations that I see in basements is directly attributable to a combination of poor grading and damaged or improperly routed downspouts. This is partially due to the property of our notorious Red River Valley clay that allows it to compact and shed surface water when properly sloped. The downside of this is that the soil will also shrink when dry and may leave gaps along the foundation that can channel water toward the foundation walls. This is most prevalent under concrete steps,...
... sand would just wash down to the weeping tile and plug the drainage of water and adding clay is ...
Another very common factor in basement leakage, which is more typical with the leakage patterns you are seeing, is deterioration of the damp-proofing on the exterior of the foundation. This thin bitumen or asphalt- based coating will often wear out after several decades, allowing the concrete to absorb moisture from the surrounding soil. If this moisture exceeds the retention capabilities of the concrete, moisture will seep through, often detected first by flaking or spalling surface concrete on the inside. If this is evident on your foundation, after removal of wall coverings and insulation, it is just as likely a culprit as the crack at the floor slab edge. The interesting thing is that the most successful repair method for both causes of leakage is the same, which I will address late...
... outside and fix it by replacing the weeping tiles or an internal repair by removing part of the floo... blocked weeping tile with modern plastic drainage piping. To answer both of your questions, this wil...
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