Call of the loon: Hearst vodka tempting seasoned palates.

AuthorKelly, Lindsay

From its family-oriented operation to the label's loon graphic, everything about Rheault Distillery's Loon Vodka exudes Canadiana. But the response from critics and connoisseurs alike suggests its pedigree is world-class.

The Hearst product has been on LCBO shelves since early spring and already it's outselling premier brands like French-made Grey Goose in Northern Ontario outlets.

Loon falls into the category of an "alpha vodka," delineated from traditional high-end vodkas by standards set in 1600s Russia by the Romanov dynasty, explains Marcel Rheault, the distillery's owner and chief distiller. Only five companies worldwide put their spirits through the rigorous process.

"To be an alpha vodka, you have to use wheat or rye, and then after that you have to distill it at least four times," Rheault said. "Then, when you have your alcohol analyzed, you have to have less than .002 per cent methanol.

Methanol--the compound that leads to nasty headaches when too much alcohol is consumed--hovers around the .6 per cent mark in high-end brands.

Rheault grows his own barley from a variety imported from Scotland and all his production is done on site. Stephen Peltonen, a Native artist from Hearst whose work was incorporated at the 2010 Vancouver Olympics, designed the label artwork. It's all part of Rheault's commitment to creating an "authentic" product.

A farmer and inventor, Rheault had been growing hydroponic cucumbers for 15 years and perfecting a greenhouse design before entering the distilling business. His success caught the attention of the agricultural department at the University of Guelph, with which he collaborated on several projects.

After a crash course in distilling at Michigan State University, Rheault spent two years working with some of the most renowned producers in the United States, including Smugglers' Notch Distillery in Vermont, which won the best vodka title in 2011, and Cold River Vodka of Maine, which took the title four years in a row

"They showed me quite a bit, those guys," Rheault said. "They didn't mind because I was in Northern Ontario, so they didn't see me as the competition."

Testimonials for Loon have been effusive. One, from a Timmins fancier who arranged a blind taste-testing of what he considered to be the world's best vodkas, said all 10 participants chose Loon over more mainstream brands.

Loon's performance at the 2014 San Francisco World Spirits Competition secured its place as an emerging star on the...

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