The server spills my chicken filet and french fries all over the table. She's apologizing profusely and I'm shovelling it back on to the plate, saying, "Ten-second rule. No problem." She clearly thinks I'm mad.

From Sliven, we take a three-hour, $6 bus ride to Plovdiv. A young cab driver this time, with half the trunk of his Skoda taken up by stereo equipment. "Wow," I say. "Cool." He grins happily. "Da."

You may be approached at the station -- bus or train -- by people offering accommodation. Letting a room in your house to tourists is a common way to make a few bucks so, if you don't have a hotel booking, take a look at the pictures they'll show you. Make sure the place isn't too far out of the way and that you're not sharing the room with a stranger. You'll almost certainly share a bathroom. Don't be afraid to dicker over the price. And be aware that the person may speak better English than he or she is letting on. If you're in the slightest doubt about the situation, walk away.