"It's definitely somewhere here," the guide whispered, urging everybody to keep still and quiet. As the minutes ticked away, The warning calls became more frequent. Soon, the white-and black furred Langur monkeys, perched atop tall Sal trees, joined the chorus with loud "keeee . . . keeee." They could clearly see the tiger from their vantage point.

Getting there: Take the overnight train, the Ranikhet Express, from Delhi to Ramnagar, the nearest town to the park. From Ramnagar, hire a jeep for $15 to Dhikala forest lodge for the 48-kilometre journey. The Jeep and its driver will stay with you during your stay in Dhikala, and take you on two safaris every day for another $15. (Delhi to Ramnagar is about 250 kilometres by road but the taxi journey on the national highway, which is dug up in long stretches for widening, is difficult and takes about eight hours.)

Suggested round trip: For a complete holiday, take a taxi to Ranikhet after visiting Corbett National Park. Ranikhet is a picture postcard town with stunning views of the Himalayas and magnificent walks. From Ranikhet drive to Binsar, located at a height of 2,438 metres and ideal for superb treks in the hills. Stay there if possible at Khali Estate -- http://www.nivalink.com/khaliestate -- whose location on the top of a mountain provides gorgeous views. Drive down from Binsar to Sonapani, another hill resort -- http://www.himalayanvillage.com -- and onward to Kathgodam in the plains to catch a train back to New Delhi.