There can't be a better time to take a swim in the sea in Negril. Known as Jamaica's capital of casual, this west-coast town is blessed with the island's finest, powdery soft sand.

Nearby Frenchman's Bay is a crescent of nearly deserted sand, with Goldensands Guest House in a prime spot at its centre. Winford Lewis opened the family-owned collection of beach houses 27 years ago, after returning to his native home from living in England. He and his stepson, Owen Clarke, said it's up in the air what will happen to this undeveloped coast over the next few years. "We don't want it to be very crowded," Clarke said. "We want to keep it like this."

* Money: Your easiest bet is to convert your money into U.S. dollars, widely accepted in tourist areas and offered at hotel exchange counters. This avoids having to calculate how much you're spending when prices in Jamaican currency are hundreds of dollars for a bottle of booze ($1 Cdn equals roughly $57 in Jamaican dollars). If you spend in U.S. funds, you'll get change back in Jamaican currency, good for small purchases and tips. And don't forget those. Everyone expects to be tipped for services.